Visiting Totnes for the First Time

Short answer: Totnes is not a beach town and that is the point of it. It sits at the tidal head of the Dart, eight miles inland — an alternative-minded market town with an independent High Street climbing to a Norman castle. The river boats run from here to Dartmouth.

Not the seaside

Totnes sits at the tidal head of the Dart, eight miles inland, and is south Devon's alternative-minded market town. There is no beach. What there is: a steep High Street of independent shops, a Norman castle at the top, an Elizabethan museum and the river at the bottom.

The town is on a hill

It climbs steeply from the river up to the castle. The flat ground is the Plains, down by the Dart, which is where several of the good places to eat are. Worth knowing before you park at the wrong end with a buggy.

The things to do

• Totnes Castle — a Norman motte and bailey with the best view over the town.
• Totnes Museum — free, in a remarkable Elizabethan building.
• Totnes Rare Breeds Farm — through the steam railway station; feed the animals for £1 a bag.
• The South Devon Railway — steam trains along the Dart valley.
• River boats down to Dartmouth.

The parking tip

The steam railway station car park is around £7.50. There is free parking on the nearby industrial estate.

Getting here

Totnes is on the mainline, which makes it one of the best car-free bases in south Devon — train in, boat down the river to Dartmouth, steam train back up the valley.

Where to eat

The Pig & Whistle at Littlehempston, just outside town, is the best-rated food in the area. The Steam Packet Inn sits on the quay. The Waterside Bistro on the Plains is open ten till ten and good with young children.