Short answer: Torquay is several distinct areas rather than one resort — the harbour, Torre Abbey Sands, Babbacombe up on the cliffs, and Cockington inland. It has more paid indoor attractions than anywhere else in Devon, which makes it the most weatherproof destination in the county.
The mistake first-timers make is treating Torquay as a single seafront. It is a collection of distinct areas and they feel different. The harbour and Victoria Parade is where the eating and drinking is. Torre Abbey Sands is the main beach. Babbacombe, up on the cliffs to the north, is quieter and prettier with its own beaches. Cockington, inland, is a thatched village that feels nothing like the rest of it.
Plan around one or two of them rather than expecting to see everything on foot.
Reviewers say it plainly, so we will too: parts of the town centre and seafront have declined and there are pockets that feel tired. The bay itself, the beaches and the Babbacombe end are what people come back for, and they are genuinely good. Set expectations accordingly and you will enjoy it.
This is Torquay's real advantage. Kents Cavern is Britain's oldest prehistoric cave system and entirely underground. Babbacombe Model Village has four acres plus an indoor section and includes adventure golf in the ticket. Torquay's Dinosaur World by the harbour is small, cheap and indoors. If your holiday forecast collapses, this is where to drive.
The Babbacombe Cliff Railway has run since 1926, costs a couple of pounds each way, takes four minutes, and saves the steep walk up from Oddicombe beach. Card payment only, fully wheelchair accessible, and dogs travel — though note dogs are not allowed on Oddicombe beach itself at any time of year.
Cockington Country Park has no entrance fee at all — a thatched village, manor house, craft workshops, lakes, gardens and playgrounds, plus two tea rooms and a Lutyens-designed pub. For a whole day that costs nothing but the parking, it is the best thing in Torquay.
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