Short answer: Exeter is Devon's county city and its rail hub. The cathedral, the medieval Underground Passages and the free Red Coat walking tours are the three things to do, and the quay is where to eat.
Devon's county city, and the one place in the county that functions as a city rather than a large town — a cathedral, a university, proper shops, and a rail hub connecting the whole of Devon.
It is also the only genuinely weatherproof day out in this guide, which matters more than it sounds between October and April.
The longest uninterrupted Gothic vaulted ceiling in England, plus an astronomical clock. Go inside.
Medieval tunnels built to bring clean water into the city, explored on a guided tour with a hard hat. Unusual, indoors, and the thing visitors remember.
Free, volunteer-led walking tours on several themes including medieval Exeter and the city walls. Among the best free things in Devon, and the guides are locals who know the place properly.
Converted riverside warehouses with quirky independent shops and cafés on both banks — quieter than the high street and the better place to eat. The Custom House Visitor Centre there is free, with a local museum upstairs.
The Guildhall centre has a free enclosed indoor family garden on the first floor with a climbing frame. iPlay at Marsh Barton is a long-running soft play with a well-regarded sensory room.
Babylon on South Street is the highest-rated restaurant in the city. The Fat Pig does a Sunday roast people travel for, with a proper gluten-free version. The Prospect Inn on the quay takes dogs seriously.
Exeter is where Devon's railways meet. The Avocet Line runs to Exmouth in twenty-five minutes, the Tarka Line to Barnstaple, the Dartmoor Line to Okehampton, and the coastal main line south through Dawlish and Teignmouth. If you are visiting Devon without a car, base yourself here.
See the full Exeter guide, filtered by who's with you.
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