Short answer: Dartmouth is a river town and the ferries are real transport rather than a novelty. Park once and move around on the water. The beaches are not here — Blackpool Sands is fifteen minutes west and the coves near town are small, shingly and down steep steps.
Understand this and Dartmouth makes sense. Boats run downriver to the castle, across to Kingswear for the steam railway, and upriver towards Totnes. They are the actual transport here, not a tourist add-on, and using them is the difference between a relaxed day and an afternoon reversing down a lane.
Park once in the town and then stay off the roads. The ferry down to the castle is around £3.50 a head for fifteen to twenty minutes and gives you the best view of the fort on the approach.
People arrive expecting sand and find a working quay. Blackpool Sands, the family beach, is a fifteen-minute drive west — sheltered, blue flag, lifeguarded, with kayak hire and a boardwalk. It is fine shingle rather than sand, so bring beach shoes.
The coves nearer town — Sugary and Compass — are small, shingly and reached down steep steps. They are swimming spots for the able-bodied rather than beach days with a family.
Narrow Tudor and Georgian streets behind a working quay, a naval college on the hill, and more good places to eat per square mile than anywhere else on this coast. The streets climbing away from the water get steep quickly, so the flat ground along the quay is where to base yourself.
Take the ferry out to the castle, walk back along the water's edge into town, and eat. That is the day, and it costs very little.
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