Short answer: In the south, Torquay has the most indoor attractions in Devon — caves, a model village and dinosaurs. In the north, The Milky Way and The Big Sheep near Bideford. In the east, Beer Quarry Caves. Exeter and Plymouth both have free museums that are genuinely good.
A beach holiday in Devon will include a wet day. The mistake is deciding what to do about it at nine in the morning while everyone is already fractious. Know in advance which direction you would drive from where you are staying and the day is fine.
Torquay is the most weatherproof place in the county. Kents Cavern is Britain's oldest prehistoric cave system and entirely underground, with guides who are funny as well as knowledgeable. Babbacombe Model Village has an indoor enchanted section and includes adventure golf. Torquay's Dinosaur World by the harbour is small, cheap and indoors.
Further south, Woodlands Family Theme Park near Totnes has large indoor play areas, and the Dartmouth Steam Railway runs in any weather.
The Milky Way Adventure Park past Bideford is the answer — largely indoors, with rollercoasters, a train ride, sci-fi memorabilia, pottery painting, a magic show and an outdoor falconry display people rate as the best bit. Closed Mondays and Fridays.
The Big Sheep near Bideford has indoor play and animal shows but runs a reduced timetable outside school holidays, so check first. World of Wonder at the Affinity centre in Bideford is described by reviewers as the cleanest soft play they have used, with an excellent toddler section — book a slot.
In Ilfracombe, the aquarium and the museum are both small but well done and are within a few minutes of each other.
Beer Quarry Caves are Roman-era underground stone quarries on a ninety-minute guided tour, and they are the best-rated attraction in east Devon. It is eight degrees down there year-round — take a coat even in August. Seaton Tramway runs covered trams up the Axe estuary, and World of Country Life at Exmouth has a large indoor museum.
Storm watching. The Dawlish sea wall, the Brixham breakwater and Morte Point at Woolacombe are all better in bad weather than good, and all three are free.
Pick a town and plan the day around who's with you.
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