Crabbing in Dartmouth: Where and How

Short answer: The quay and the Embankment in Dartmouth are the spots — sheltered river water, walls to sit on and the ferries passing for entertainment. Go on a rising tide, and take the ferry across to Kingswear for a quieter wall.

A river town, which is what you want

The Dart is tidal and sheltered, and Dartmouth's whole waterfront is quay wall. That combination makes it one of the better crabbing spots in south Devon: deep enough water below you at most states of the tide, no surf, and a constant stream of ferries and boats going past to keep everyone interested.

Where to sit

The quay in the middle of town and the Embankment running along the river are the obvious spots. Both are level, both have railings, and both are a minute from somewhere to buy a coffee. Bayard's Cove, the cobbled quay at the southern end of the waterfront, is quieter and prettier.

Across the river

Take the passenger ferry over to Kingswear if the Dartmouth side is busy. It is a short crossing, the ferries are proper transport rather than a novelty here, and the far bank is markedly quieter. It also puts you at the steam railway terminus if that is on the day's list.

When to go

A rising tide. The Dart moves a good deal of water and at low tide you can be fishing over mud rather than water, which nobody enjoys. Early morning before the town wakes up is the pleasantest time — the ferries are running but the crowds are not there yet.

What to take

A line rather than a net, a bucket, and bait. Bacon is the traditional choice and works; so does squid from the fishmonger. Fill the bucket with seawater before you start and keep it in the shade.

The rules that matter

• Half a dozen crabs to a bucket, no more — they fight and they suffocate.
• Change the seawater every twenty minutes or so, and keep the bucket out of the sun.
• Never lift a crab by one leg. Pick it up from behind, either side of the shell.
• Put them back where you caught them, gently and close to the water.
• Do not take them home. They will not survive the journey and it is not the point.

If you want rock pools instead

Sugary Cove, three minutes' walk from Dartmouth Castle or half an hour on foot from town, is a small shingle cove with clear water — good for a swim and a poke about, though uneven underfoot getting in and out. Blackpool Sands, fifteen minutes west, has a proper beach with facilities but is fine shingle rather than sand.

Afterwards

Café Alf Resco opens at seven with a covered courtyard and is famously dog friendly — the obvious breakfast before or after. Dudley's on Lower Street does crab sandwiches, which has a certain symmetry.