Short answer: Appledore is a fishing village of narrow streets running down to a quay, and in December the lights come off the water. The Seagate opens at eight, the Beaver Inn overlooks the estuary, and all four pubs are within a few minutes' walk.
Appledore is a working fishing village rather than a holiday town, which means it does not empty in the way Croyde or Woolacombe do. The pubs are busy in January because local people are in them.
The quay is where two rivers meet, and the lights along the front reflect off the estuary. It is a short, compact village, so you see all of it in twenty minutes — but it is a genuinely pretty twenty minutes in December.
2026 dates: switch-on evenings and market dates are confirmed by town councils and organisers through October and November, and they move year to year. Check the town council or chamber of commerce listing before travelling rather than relying on last year's date.
Especially in December, when the lanes are wet and dark. The streets are extremely narrow, and the car park at the top with a short walk down is the sensible arrival.
The Boathouse at Instow faces the estuary and is the best-loved pub in the area. The seasonal ferry may not be running in winter, so check before relying on it — it is a short drive round otherwise.
Book Christmas and Boxing Day lunch in November. Devon's good pubs fill weeks ahead and the ones that do not take bookings have queues instead.
See the full Appledore guide, filtered by who's with you.
Plan your day near Appledore →